2001 AUII ute immobilizer problems

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by mad2

why did you leave key on accessory's for 61 minutes & then turn it off??

redoing the remotes is just turning to either accessories/ignition on [forgotten which ] then trying the demister 3 times. if it doesn't work 1st time retry again till it works [may have to do it a 'few' times just to get the timing right. and i mean to key to off position & then back & retry] with the door locks 'cycling'. once they do do your remotes [making sure you had them with you before you started], then turn ignition off when finished doing however many remotes you want. this does not 'reset' the door locks, just programs the remote fob. i believe [but don't have 1st hand experience with it] that if the heated rear window does not work you cannot get the car to go into learning mode?? - is this true foxtrot3 ?.


how are you testing the fuses?

Read on another thread somewhere to pull the key out after 61 minutes and wait 30 seconds before reinserting it before trying to reset door cycle pressing demister 3 times after turning back to on/accessory position.

[aussiblue]

Is fuse 10 good?

[foxtrot3]

Hi. Did you have power at the fuse box for fuses 10 & 11? If no then check for power on yellow/black wire on back of fuse box If yes pull out BEM (above your left knee and check for power on a black/pink wire (a12) and a yellow/black wire (b10). Cheers MD

[aussiblue]

Also check fuse 1 and fuse 20 as the power to the courtesy light comes via the instrument panel. Does the instrument panel lighting and dimming work? Do all the warning lights on the dash come on engine off ignition on? Are headlights now working? Does the door ajar warning light on the dash work ignition on, engine off and door open? ? Are all three connectors at the back of the instrument panel firmly plugged it it?

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. Check fuse 5 in the under bonnet fuse box (big 40 amp one beside the 2 30 amp fuses). Cheers MD

Seems ok, but I replaced it with another out of the other AU sedan.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. Did you have power at the fuse box for fuses 10 & 11? If no then check for power on yellow/black wire on back of fuse box If yes pull out BEM (above your left knee and check for power on a black/pink wire (a12) and a yellow/black wire (b10). Cheers MD

No power when tested with test light? I had to mow the yard and paddock next door, so I got the key back in now and battery on charge for another 61 minutes trying to reset door cycle as suggested earlier. Don't want to touch anything until after I try reset procedure again using demister switch 3 times. If no good I will check yellow/black wire on back of fuse box.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Also check fuse 1 and fuse 20 as the power to the courtesy light comes via the instrument panel. Does the instrument panel lighting and dimming work? Do all the warning lights on the dash come on engine off ignition on? Are headlights now working? Does the door ajar warning light on the dash work ignition on, engine off and door open? ? Are all three connectors at the back of the instrument panel firmly plugged it it?

Fuse 1 & 20 were okay when I last checked Blue. All instrument panel lighting are working and dimmer switch is also working. All dash lights light up when turned to on/acc position, then engine light goes off and ignition on. Headlights are working. Door ajar light not on when door is open in on/acc position. While it's on battery charger for 61 minutes again with key in on/acc position, the only dash lights that are on are: oil pressure light, airbag light, battery light, engine coolant light, and fuel light. Still no interior light or key ignition entry light.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

No power when tested with test light? I had to mow the yard and paddock next door, so I got the key back in now and battery on charge for another 61 minutes trying to reset door cycle as suggested earlier. Don't want to touch anything until after I try reset procedure again using demister switch 3 times. If no good I will check yellow/black wire on back of fuse box.

Hi. You need to get power to those fusea or it just wont work. If you use the AU sedan wiring diagrams instead of the ute one they are a lot better to read (just have to ignore the high level versions, fairlane etc). You can get to the back of the fuse box by undoing the 2 screws and pushing the retainer clip aside so that the fuse box folds out towards you. Cheers MD

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. You need to get power to those fusea or it just wont work. If you use the AU sedan wiring diagrams instead of the ute one they are a lot better to read (just have to ignore the high level versions, fairlane etc). You can get to the back of the fuse box by undoing the 2 screws and pushing the retainer clip aside so that the fuse box folds out towards you. Cheers MD

Okay I pulled fuse panel and connected test light to the yellow and black terminals and I have power to the fuse panel foxtrot3. That's without the keys in the ignition.

[11ford11]

As mentioned you need power to fuse 11 at least
leaving key on is for earlier au to program key to vehicle not your model which requires scan tool and program
rear demist button while in Accessory position is to program remote to vehicle for door

try putting power to fuse 11 from another fuse turn ignition on and see if smartshield light goes out and if it will start
if so fuse box may be faulty - a plug may be out or a alarm of some type may have activated when battery was disconnected and needs bypassing or deactivating with a remote if you have one









u

[11ford11]

previous is a partial post for some reason, time for new computer maybe, but general info there !

[aussiblue]

Check Relay 5 the 40Amp Battery Relay it feeds Fuse 11. Or try swapping it with Relay 4.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by 11ford11

As mentioned you need power to fuse 11 at least
leaving key on is for earlier au to program key to vehicle not your model which requires scan tool and program
rear demist button while in Accessory position is to program remote to vehicle for door

try putting power to fuse 11 from another fuse turn ignition on and see if smartshield light goes out and if it will start
if so fuse box may be faulty - a plug may be out or a alarm of some type may have activated when battery was disconnected and needs bypassing or deactivating with a remote if you have one









u

I got power to fuse panel, but still no power to fuse 11. Using the test light to check, but still no power. Gonna use test light to check all relevant fuse points to see if any power to any of them.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Check Relay 5 the 40Amp Battery Relay it feeds Fuse 11. Or try swapping it with Relay 4.

Relay 4 & 5 are different, but will try relay 2 as it's the same and the headlights work.

[FuriousFord]

I checked every fuse point with the test light and the only two fuses test positive is No.1- Cluster Lg & No.17-A/Bag No.1. Replacing fuses isn't going to work if I got no power to the rest of them, especially No.10 & 11. 11ford11 Do I need to replace the whole fuse panel or do I try pull each of the plugs on the back of the panel and reinsert them???



Swapped over fuse relays R2 & R5 and still no difference as the headlights works on both relays. aussiblue

[FuriousFord]

Also for some reason the door light on the dash cluster is coming up now to confirm the door is open.


I also noticed then that when the lights are left on with or without the key in or out of the ignition, the reminder headlight chime is no longer working.

[aussiblue]

Also for some reason the door light on the dash cluster is coming up now to confirm the door is open.
I also noticed then that when the lights are left on with or without the key in or out of the ignition, the reminder headlight chime is no longer working.

Unplug all the relays one at a time and hit all the relay sockets with some contact cleaner lubricant spray. Perhaps if it had been sitting unused for a while and the have exposure to any moisture (dew etc) the contacts have a developed coating of corrosion as sometimes happens and the are only making intermittent contact. And yes check the back of the fuse panel to make sure the wiring harnesses are all completely plugged in.

Have you checked the harness plugs are all firmly plugged into BEM yet? It is starting to sound a lot like a wiring harness plug or connector somewhere is not completely plugged in or plugged together.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Check Relay 5 the 40Amp Battery Relay it feeds Fuse 11. Or try swapping it with Relay 4.

Hi. Its "main fuse #5 that feeds fuse 10 & 11 via the yellow/black wire to the back of the fuse box, FF checked the yellow/black wire and confirmed power to the fuse box (if he checked the right wire) so it should be ok. It also provides power to the start relay and that was checked and provided enough power to energise the starter solenoid so again thats OK. We now need to find out what is happening between the yellow/black wire going into the fuse box and the "live side of fuses 10 & 11. It may require the use of a headlight globe as a test light to put a big load on the yellow black wire to see if there is a faulty connection somewhere. Cheers MD

[aussiblue]

It would be interesting if this wire with the tape on it has a black stripe on the other side of it.

[foxtrot3]

Hi. The yellow wire going to the ignition switch plug (on the car side) comes from the ign main fuse 2 fuses to the left of fuse #5. Cheers MD

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. Its "main fuse #5 that feeds fuse 10 & 11 via the yellow/black wire to the back of the fuse box, FF checked the yellow/black wire and confirmed power to the fuse box (if he checked the right wire) so it should be ok. It also provides power to the start relay and that was checked and provided enough power to energise the starter solenoid so again thats OK. We now need to find out what is happening between the yellow/black wire going into the fuse box and the "live side of fuses 10 & 11. It may require the use of a headlight globe as a test light to put a big load on the yellow black wire to see if there is a faulty connection somewhere. Cheers MD

Hi again. Is the yellow/back wire behind the interior fuse panel a separate yellow and black wire or is it one wire with yellow/black on it? I have made a new test light using the high beam light globe. When I last check this yellow/black wire mentioned earlier, I checked the separate yellow and black wires with the test light. Will get a pic and upload to show you which wires I checked.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

Hi again. Is the yellow/back wire behind the interior fuse panel a separate yellow and black wire or is it one wire with yellow/black on it? I have made a new test light using the high beam light globe. When I last check this yellow/black wire mentioned earlier, I checked the separate yellow and black wires with the test light. Will get a pic and upload to show you which wires I checked.

This is the wires I checked circled in yellow.

[11ford11]

No picture ?

Temporarily Run your own power supply to fuse 11 with a piece of wire with fuse still in a check smart shield and start operation

[FuriousFord]

Over it. I'm firmly of the opinion the the transponder has died as aussiblue mentioned earlier and there is no way around this problem unless the key is re-programmed as I only have one key with no remote(keypad). The immobilizer symbol is flashing repeatedly after turning it to the on/acc position, as described under 15-8-27 of the manual and needs to be re-programmed.

Under 15-8-28 (Invalid or Faulty Keys) clause 12, I tried to restart the ute 3 times and now there is no ignition whatsoever. The immobilizer symbol continues to flash repeatedly.

[aussiblue]

Have you checked the plugs into the BCM yet to ensure one is not partially unplugged; it's not an uncommon cause of these types of issues ?

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

This is the wires I checked circled in yellow.

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

Hi again. Is the yellow/back wire behind the interior fuse panel a separate yellow and black wire or is it one wire with yellow/black on it? I have made a new test light using the high beam light globe. When I last check this yellow/black wire mentioned earlier, I checked the separate yellow and black wires with the test light. Will get a pic and upload to show you which wires I checked.

Hi. the one you need to check is the yellow/black wire (a yellow rire with a black stripe) in the plug in the corner of the fuse box. All 3 wires in that plug should have power to them. The yellow wire you tested is the supply from the fuse box to the ignition switch. No point in checking the wires at the BCM until you have confirmed power to the fuse box and power on fuses 10 & 11. Cheers MD

[foxtrot3]

Hi. depending on build date that 3 pin plug could have a yellow wire a yellow/black wire and a black/orange wire OR a yellow wire and 2 yellow/black wires. No mater what build date all 3 wires should have power. The yellow wire gets its power from main fuse 7 (ign) and the 2 other wires both get their power from main fuse 5. Cheers MD

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. depending on build date that 3 pin plug could have a yellow wire a yellow/black wire and a black/orange wire OR a yellow wire and 2 yellow/black wires. No mater what build date all 3 wires should have power. The yellow wire gets its power from main fuse 7 (ign) and the 2 other wires both get their power from main fuse 5. Cheers MD

Checked all 3 yellow wires and have power to all 3. Using test light, still no power to fuses 10 & 11.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

Checked all 3 yellow wires and have power to all 3. Using test light, still no power to fuses 10 & 11.

Hi. In that case fit another fuse box. Cheers MD

[11ford11]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. In that case fit another fuse box. Cheers MD

As mentioned fit another fuse box - is there one in other vehicle you have

Transponder may or may not be faulty but you still need power to fuse 11