EF auto trans and steering problems

BABOSS · 07-12-2005, 08:38 PM

Ok first of all it's a 4 speed EF Auto transy, I've got 280000 on the clock.

I've had the transy in for a repair recently because from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th there would be a 'clunk' when it went into gear which jolted the whole car violently. I asked them to reco the transy and they called me whilst it was in the shop and told me that i didnt need a reco and that the solonoid had simply gone in the transy and needed to be replaced.

So i picked it up and $1000 later i was happy for two days, That was untill i took her on the freeway. At around 100Kmph it has difficulties changing from 3rd to 4th but all the other problems have gone. As the exhaust is loud it is annoying that it changes from 3rd to 4th and then quickly goes back to 3rd. I wanted to make sure it wasn't anything else before taking it back to the transy reco place. I also noticed there is a fair bit of play in the diff.

The second problem is iv'e recently had all four of my shocks replaced at Pedders and i'm still having the issue of when i go over a ditch in the road my steering wheel moves left almost 1/4 of a turn and generally when i'm changing lanes, the vehicle seems to 'drift' into the next lane. I've had Pedders check the steering and shock system out and all was found ok.

The other problem is that my front rotors need to be replaced and i think maybe one of the callipers; possibly on the LHS front is not functioning correctlyand needs a overhaul. Does anyone think this could be the source of the pulling to one side?

I've had two different mechanics look over my car and they have no idea what the problem is. I thought maybe if i post this longass topic here, maybe someone with similar experiences could guide me in the right direction.

Thanks.

EF_Frmnt · 07-12-2005, 09:26 PM

Maybe a wheel alignment would stop the drifting... get some calipers from the wreckers if you think yous arent working but i dont think this could have an affect on steering direction. Check your auto fluid levels sometimes the machines they use to flush and refill the auto dont put as much in as they should. The diff you could possibly just get all tightened and clearances checked.

BABOSS · 07-12-2005, 10:23 PM

I will see if i can get some used calipers from the wreckers, it could be cheaper than overhaulin the existing ones. As for the Auto trans fluid, there seems to be enough of it. I may have to take it back though, the only trouble is when they replaced the transy solonoid they had the car for 2 days and i don't think i can drop it in for another day. Also i had a wheel alignment done recently, but they may have done a dogey one.

snypereb · 08-12-2005, 12:11 AM

Where are you located mate?

BABOSS · 08-12-2005, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snypereb

Where are you located mate?

Lol again? You already asked http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=29369

Narre Warren

TURBO_GHIA · 08-12-2005, 10:48 AM

$1000 to change a solinoid bit pricy isnt it

BABOSS · 22-12-2005, 09:00 PM

Well i took it to the mechanics the other day and they plugged in their diagnostic tool into the ECU and it came up with an error code for some kind of sensor somewhere on the bottom of the transy and said it will cost $150 inc fitting a new one 2.5hrs labour. Does that sound reasonable?

BABOSS · 24-12-2005, 09:37 AM

Disregard the 2.5 hrs labour. It was quoted@$150 all up.

Aaron_EF8 · 24-12-2005, 06:33 PM

Theres 8 or 9 solenoids in a BTR IIRC, S5 is the most common one to go, they cost $250 for an AU one (which will fit straight in) or a Corvette/HSV spec TH700E Solenoid will also fit straight in.

$1000 is almost 3 times what you should have paid for an S5 replacement. Did they give you a list of everything that was done to the car for $1000?

As a comparison, new S5 and S1 solenoids fitted, with a full flush and service cost me $460.

EDIT - When the car drops from 3rd, to 4th then back to 3rd, does it stay in third, or will it shift gears normally still? Do the same problems occur when you manually shift the trans?
Have you checked the TPS? Idle voltage should be under 1v, and WOT over 4.5v - the easiest way to check is with the 2 outside wires on the TPS with the ignition on, and engien off.

BABOSS · 26-12-2005, 07:47 PM

When it goes from 3rd to 4th it stays a little while then drops back to 3rd and stays there for ages and doesnt want to go back into 4th, but does eventually for a little while and then goes back to 3rd again for ages.

It really sucks on the freeway @ 100+Km/h and it's loud in 3rd.
As for WOT and TPS, i have no idea what you're talking about sorry. I just wanted to know if the $150 was reasonable to repair the problem since i just spent $1000 to fix the transy and this was a seperate issue that the ECU reported.

On the other subject, this is how high my front end currently sits, i want it a little lower but not too low because i go camping a fair bit and you know how low cars and some off road don't mix. Just after suggestions cheers. BTW i'm aware that GSR sports strutts will do the job but i don't want to pay $500 for a pair inc. fitting, there must be a cheaper alternative.

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/873/10009834qc.jpg

Aaron_EF8 · 26-12-2005, 08:54 PM

WOT = Wide Open Throttle, TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. The TPS is on the throttle body.

It's very hard to say if the seperate issue is worth $150 to fix, because you haven't mentioned what is getting replaced.

Brent79 · 27-12-2005, 12:43 AM

Hmmm... this sounds familure. Had the same thing done to my EB a few years ago. Went in to the shop and they said it was "most likely" the S5 (line pressure) solenoid. It seems its the "head gasket problem" of the auto's. Anyway.. turned out that i had a buggered clutch pack. Hmmmm... what a waste of $490. Turned out for the betta as i changed over to a T5

Brent