WarmUp Method

[T_Terror]

Whats the best way to warm up your car?

I used to idle my car for a bit while i got ready before taking off.

Then i read somewhere that it was bad, and that it was better to load your engine up and drive normally for cold starts (no redlining!) similar to running in a new engine.



What do you think?

[8pAc]

I start let it idle a bit then drive off in a bit less than normal manor till things get going, then normal, wont considor hard bursts till things are at least 2/3 3/4 temp.

edit probably a bit anal but to me 15,000 km services is a death warrant to an engine in time, so, hey whatever.

same as above, if you load a cold engine too early with cold oil Ive found it damages the conrod bearings and gudgons in an older engine :evilsasmo

[smciner1]

The XR6 I let warm up most times before taking it out. The GT I have to let warm up, it usually takes about 3 - 5 minutes before it decides it wants to idle by itself. Neither get driven hard when cold.

[sbutler]

Originally Posted by smciner1

The XR6 I let warm up most times before taking it out. The GT I have to let warm up, it usually takes about 3 - 5 minutes before it decides it wants to idle by itself. Neither get driven hard when cold.

I think thats the key to all this, never flog a cold engine..... :

[Timmeh]

Originally Posted by smciner1

The GT I have to let warm up, it usually takes about 3 - 5 minutes before it decides it wants to idle by itself.

My RS2000 has the same characteristics, you'd need three feet to drive it if it is to be driven cold. But that doesn't happen, you just need to be patient heh.

Tim

[Kryton]

to me it depends really if its a newer or an older car. older cars get warmed up more compared to newer cars.
doesnt mean that i always warm up the XF before i go to work either.

[needturbo6]

"warm up needs to be done as quickly as possible as thats when the most damage occurs, and driving it under load will warm a car up much quicker.
Also if you read most manufacturers handbooks, the warm up procedure for almost any given car consists of light driving rather than sitting there idling it on the spot until the temperature gauge slowly begins to climb."

that is an excert from a ZOOM article written by Martin Donnan aka Street tuna

makes sense.

my understanding is also that oil also takes a lot longer to warm up than coolant, and a car shouldnt be driven hard until oil has warmed up for many reasons - engine parts are not up to temp., oil is still fairly thin (eg. 15w) until it gets warm (eg. 50)

[4.0i_SiX]

i agree that light driving is ok, I usually let it idle for about a minute then creep along until shes up to operating temp. The engine should not be put under load as has been stated. The pistons actually expand faster than any other metal surrounding them which can cause scoring of the bore if they expand too rapidly without decent lubrication. This is what I have been told by a few engine builders and it makes sense to me.

[Mike Gayner]

My EA doesn't really get warmed up at all, I just jump in and go. The XA is very difficult to drive when it's cold, needs a 2 - 3 minute warmup.

[FordFan86]

Let it idle maybe while i throw the garage door up or get ready to drove then take it easy till it gets up to temperature

[LTDHO]

You should not let your car warm up from idle as it causes the bores and the ring service to glase. A car should always we slowly driven. Driving it cold doesn't cause any damage. Unless you turn key and take it to red line, that will hurt!

[private9]

Originally Posted by LTDHO

You should not let your car warm up from idle as it causes the bores and the ring service to glase. A car should always we slowly driven. Driving it cold doesn't cause any damage. Unless you turn key and take it to red line, that will hurt!

I did just that every day in a Corolla for 4 years and even at 300,000 kays the thing just wouldn't die!

[red_hotxr6]

Originally Posted by private9

I did just that every day in a Corolla for 4 years and even at 300,000 kays the thing just wouldn't die!

That,s because toyota engines are d..n good.Hubby,s toyota lite ace engine is 424,000 plus and is still going strong.He takes a while to warm that up every morning before work, but i dont know if that is efi or not.

[Steffo]

Originally Posted by red_hotxr6

That,s because toyota engines are d..n good.Hubby,s toyota lite ace engine is 424,000 plus and is still going strong.He takes a while to warm that up every morning before work, but i dont know if that is efi or not.

It would be carb.

[outback_ute]

I let it idle for a bit to allow oil to circulate & build up pressure thoughout the engine, then drive it & take it easy until temp gets up.

[SSbaby]

Definitely drive off soon after startup as the cats heat up quicker to allow the engine's PCM into closed loop operation sooner. But keep it under 2000rpm until all fluids are up to operating temps.

Better for the car and environment. But each to their own...

[Brute33]

Originally Posted by SSbaby

Definitely drive off soon after startup as the cats heat up quicker to allow the engine's PCM into closed loop operation sooner. But keep it under 2000rpm until all fluids are up to operating temps.

Better for the car and environment. But each to their own...

Not true ..
Closed loop operation happens at idle and cruising only , as the ECU is receiving the oxygen sensor/s feedback which in turn keeps the A/F ratio at around 14 to 15 : 1 which is around optimum for the cats to clean the exhaust gases.

Open loop is used for anything else , which is where the mapping comes into play.

As for warming up . Start for 30 secs with a few light revs , then take off.

[SSbaby]

Originally Posted by Brute33

Not true ..
Closed loop operation happens at idle and cruising only , as the ECU is receiving the oxygen sensor/s feedback which in turn keeps the A/F ratio at around 14 to 15 : 1 which is around optimum for the cats to clean the exhaust gases.

Open loop is used for anything else , which is where the mapping comes into play.

As for warming up . Start for 30 secs with a few light revs , then take off.

I beg to differ. O2 sensors don't work until they're heated up to around 330C degrees. That's the physics and chemistry part of it out of the way!

As for open loop, it is usually engaged at power enrichment mode which most of the time is WOT but not necessarily.

As for 14.7... that's stoich and that occurs when the mixture is nearly 15 parts of air to one part fuel ... which is normally at cruise (i.e. when the economy is best).

You sound like you think you know what you are talking about. I will counter your argument with solid evidence if you still disagree. ;)

BTW, the cats don't like constant periods at idle especially at cold start as the mixture is very rich and not good for the cats... that's why manufacturers these days move the cats closer to the engine - for faster heating of the O2s and quicker response time in closed loop.

[dansedgli]

I drive mine off boost until the temp gets up to normal.

[LuvinmyEB]

The EB, jump in and go when it's cold (although a little slower than I'd drive it when it's warm).

The Mk I Escort, two minutes to start it if it's really cold, then let it idle (if it doesn't stall a couple of times) for about five mins or so before take off.

[RED_EL_XR8]

What gets me with this debate is that it only ever seems to consider the engine. What about the rest of your car?

I see guys who would never consider driving until the engine has idled for a few minutes but out of the driveway and give the thing 11/10s, what about the auto or gearbox, the diff, brakes, suspension components all these things can be affected by temperature.

Lubrication takes time to become fully effective, so common sense would be to allow a brief idle at least till the engine is sitting comfrotable at idle RPM, and then gentle driving as you bring the whole car up to operating temperatures. 1000's of moving parts and 1000's tiny expansions going on.

But I guess its all depends on how long you are going to own the car, modern cars will generally survive a DGAF treatment pretty well for several years, and are suprisingly good at bringing them self up to steady idle etc. If you want longevity however, I'd recommend developing at least a mildy "mechanically sympathetic" approach. :monkes:

[dogbreath_48]

Drive it. I don't get moving the split second after it starts, i wait long enough to get oil up to pressure etc (...and to put my seatbelt on...), then just drive gently...

-Stu

[Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by dansedgli

I drive mine off boost until the temp gets up to normal.

same lol!

[Dilan]

My manual warns me not to let it warm up for more than 20-30 seconds.

[Falcon Freak]

I usually let the car idle for 30 seconds before I start to drive. This is not enough to warm up the car but is enough time to allow 'everything to settle'. Once on the road I don't start giving the car stick until it reaches normal operating temperature.

FF

[HLC]

i just drive.

[johnydep]

Start it up and drive, that's the best way to get all parts of the engine warmed up as well as the drive train.

Long idling only warms some parts of the motor and nothing else, giving a false impression that the vehicle is ready for anything.

The Territory section had a similar poll awhile back; Do you warm up your Tezz?

One important thing to note is engine oil viscosity, thinner oil is better for cold weather start up.

[Genghis]

I start it up, buckle up, mirrors etc and then I'm away. Not to much in the way of warm up really.

[TEaaron]

Saying to start and drive off lightly straight away is easy to say when you don't have a cast iron head on an old crossflow.